If a serum visibly lengthens the eyelashes, do not assume first that it is gentle simply because it is a cosmetic. Some products use prostaglandin analogues, which can pharmacologically affect the hair cycle. This group of ingredients acts differently from moisturizing ingredients that merely coat the hair’s surface.
In its final opinion dated February 2, 2026, the European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) concluded that Isopropyl Cloprostenate (IPCP), Methylamido-Dihydro-Noralfaprostal (MDN), and Dechloro Dihydroxy Difluoro Ethylcloprostenolamide (DDDE) could not be considered safe for use in eyelash and eyebrow growth cosmetics.[1]
Why are prostaglandin analogues different from ordinary peptide serums?
Prostaglandin analogues are a group of ingredients that resemble substances originally involved in physiological signaling. The SCCS raised concerns that they may show strong pharmacological activity even at low concentrations, and that there was insufficient evidence to rule out reproductive and developmental toxicity.[1]
By contrast, serums that feature peptides, panthenol, amino acids, or plant oils are generally closer to “conditioning”: coating the eyelashes, reducing breakage, or helping them stay moisturized. Even if there are laboratory data on an ingredient, that does not mean the finished product increases the number or length of human eyelashes in practice.
How do prescription eyelash treatments differ from cosmetic serums?
In the United States, bimatoprost 0.03% is used for eyelash growth as a prescription drug called LATISSE. The FDA label instructs users to apply it once daily to the upper eyelid margin with a sterile applicator, and states that using it more often does not increase growth and that growth may return to its original level after discontinuation.[2]
The same label lists changes in intraocular pressure, changes in the color of the eyelids and skin around the eyes, dryness and swelling, and deepening of the eyelid sulcus and drooping among its warnings and postmarketing adverse reactions.[2] Unlike cosmetic advertising, medicines manage directions for use and risks alongside their demonstrated effects.
Which names should you look for on the ingredient list?
Look at the full ingredient list rather than the “lash booster” claim on the front. The English names included in this SCCS assessment are Isopropyl Cloprostenate, Methylamido-Dihydro-Noralfaprostal, and Dechloro Dihydroxy Difluoro Ethylcloprostenolamide.[1] Because the spellings are long, searching for them on the product page before buying is often faster.
The absence of these three names does not automatically mean that every growth-oriented ingredient is safe. Other analogues or labeling conventions may exist, and regulations may differ by country. Ask the manufacturer about the mechanism of growth, the number and duration of participants in human studies, adverse reactions, and the product’s regulatory status in the countries where it is sold.
Who should be especially cautious?
People preparing for pregnancy, who are pregnant or breastfeeding, who use treatment for glaucoma or intraocular pressure, who have severe blepharitis or dry eye, or who are before or after eye surgery may be safer not to start growth-oriented products on their own. It is also important to consider that the SCCS identified the lack of sufficient data to rule out reproductive and developmental toxicity as a key concern.[1]
If the eyelids become darker after use, the eyes become bloodshot or itchy, or the area around the eyes appears sunken, do not dismiss it as an “adjustment period.” Stop using the product and show its name and full ingredient list to an ophthalmologist or other medical professional.
Eyelash Serum FAQ
If it does not sting, is it safe to keep using?
The absence of stinging alone cannot establish long-term safety. Adverse reactions that emerge gradually, such as changes in color or fat around the eyes, may not cause immediate pain.[2]
Can numerous before-and-after photos replace human studies?
No. Differences in lighting, mascara, curl, and camera angle can make length and density appear substantially different. Check whether the study discloses a control group under identical conditions, the evaluation period, dropouts, and adverse reactions.
DERME VERDICT
When choosing an eyelash serum, the most important question is not “How quickly will they grow?” but “By what mechanism will they grow?” Separating conditioning that reduces breakage from pharmacological growth makes the ingredient list, rather than exaggerated before-and-after photos, the first thing to examine.
Sources
[2] U.S. FDA · LATISSE (bimatoprost ophthalmic solution) 0.03% Prescribing Information · 2021
