In Vogue’s “Beauty Secrets,” released on February 12, 2026, Apple Martin said, in essence, that even if a new breakout appears, it does not have to ruin the entire day. Amid its glamorous makeup tips, the video did not hide the reality that skin can look different from day to day.[1] Accepting acne is not the same as giving up on treatment. The key is not to treat one or two spots as a failure, while treating inflammation that causes pain and scarring early.

Apple Martin shared her own experiences and attitude toward her skin; she did not present a treatment suited to everyone. Nor should anyone infer a skin condition or history of procedures from her appearance. What we can take from her perspective is that “today’s breakout does not define me.” A dermatological discussion begins by considering the type of lesion and its recurring pattern separately.

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Will being less conscious of acne make you delay treatment?

There is no need for that. In fact, reducing the habit of changing products or squeezing spots every day in front of the mirror can help minimize irritation and hyperpigmentation. However, if you see red, painful nodules, deep pus-filled lesions, inflammation that recurs in the same spot, or scarring, “let’s wait and see” may not be the best approach.

The goal of acne treatment is not to make a single spot disappear overnight, but to reduce the number of new inflammatory lesions and prevent scarring. The American Academy of Dermatology’s (AAD) 2024 guidelines recommend benzoyl peroxide, topical retinoids, and certain antibiotic combinations among evidence-based treatments.[2] Because of the risk of antibiotic resistance, limiting the duration of antibiotic use and combining antibiotics with benzoyl peroxide are important principles.[2]

Why are cleansing and moisturizing the foundation of treatment?

It may seem that the more vigorously you cleanse, the more completely you will remove sebum, but friction and excessive degreasing can irritate the skin barrier. Wash morning and evening with a gentle cleanser, and rinse without rubbing after exercise or sweating. Do not begin by using scrubs, toners with a high alcohol content, or several acids at the same time.

Treatments such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, and adapalene or tretinoin can cause dryness and irritation. The AAD advises using an oil-free, noncomedogenic moisturizer—one labeled as unlikely to clog pores—to help you tolerate treatment.[3] Moisturizing does not weaken acne treatment; it helps you continue it consistently.

How should you choose between medication and procedures?

First, classify the active inflammation. When comedones are predominant, a topical retinoid is a common starting point; when red inflammatory lesions are also present, it is often combined with benzoyl peroxide.[2] If pregnancy is possible, or if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, retinoids require separate consideration. If a large, painful nodule appears suddenly, an intralesional steroid injection at a dermatology clinic may be used to quickly reduce pain and inflammation.[2]

A procedure is not a shortcut that replaces medication. The official Gangnam guidance from SEOLREIM CLINIC introduces PDT, which uses a photosensitizing agent and light to reduce sebaceous-gland activity and inflammation, as an option for recurrent inflammatory acne.[4] This is material confirming that the treatment is offered, not independent evidence of its effectiveness. Photosensitivity, redness, scaling, and the recovery schedule must be considered, and scar laser treatment should not be rushed before active inflammation is controlled.

When can acne marks and scars be distinguished?

Flat red or brown marks may be post-inflammatory marks. If the skin is indented or raised and its structure has changed, it is more likely to be a scar. Because marks and scars require different treatments, reduce new inflammation first, then assess the depth and form once the condition has stabilized.

Dr. Kang Jeong-ha’s recommendations

First, for one week, record the number of new inflammatory lesions, their pain, and any marks from squeezing, along with a single photograph. Second, keep your cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen consistent, and introduce only one new active ingredient at a time. Third, do not squeeze with your hands, and keep items that frequently touch your face—such as pillowcases and your phone—clean.

The first priority in treatment is to have active acne diagnosed and to use standard topical treatment consistently. For large, painful lesions, an intralesional steroid injection may be an option for rapid pain relief; when recurrent inflammation and excess sebum are central concerns and medication alone is insufficient, PDT may be considered.[2][4] Scar lasers or radiofrequency microneedling should come later, after new inflammation has stabilized, and be selected according to the type of scarring. As Apple Martin said, today’s acne is not a failure of the day. But when its pattern is likely to leave scars, not putting it off until tomorrow is a kinder form of acceptance.

Profile photo of Dr. Kang Jeong-ha, Medical Director

Fascinating dermatology stories for healthier skin

Drawing on 16 years of experience performing dermatological procedures while running SEOLREIM CLINIC in Gangnam, Dr. Kang Jeong-ha explains practical skincare methods for everyday life, along with engaging stories about dermatology inspired by celebrities, public figures, and television. Through professional knowledge and experience, she aims to help your skin look healthier and more radiant. We hope this series broadens your understanding of skin and helps you discover ways to care for yourself.

Dr. Kang Jeong-ha, Medical Director (SEOLREIM CLINIC Gangnam)

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