KATSEYE’s Yoonchae’s ‘Oily Yet Dehydrated’ Routine: Will Cutting Out Oil Reduce Acne?

The short answer is no: completely removing oil from shiny skin is not the solution to acne. “Oily yet dehydrated” is a colloquial term for skin that produces a lot of sebum but feels tight after cleansing. The better approach is to maintain gentle cleansing and light moisturization while planning acne treatment separately.

In a Vogue video released on September 30, 2026, KATSEYE’s Yoonchae explained that she developed her own skincare routine because of acne during adolescence, and that she avoids oily products because her skin feels both oily and dry—“oily yet dehydrated.”[1] She also shared that although sunscreen is important, she used to dislike applying it because it made her skin look shiny.[1] Rather than signaling that viewers should duplicate her product choices, this offers a useful starting point for asking what to adjust when skin feels oily and dry at the same time.

Is “oily yet dehydrated” a dermatological diagnosis?

“Oily yet dehydrated,” short for “dehydrated oily skin,” is widely used, but it is not the name of a disease. Skin that produces a lot of sebum but feels tight or flaky after cleansing, skin that has become dry because of acne medication, and skin affected by other inflammatory conditions such as seborrheic dermatitis or perioral dermatitis can all feel similar.

That is why layering strong cleansers and toners based solely on how shiny the skin looks in the mirror can make the underlying cause even harder to identify. Sebum may not decrease, while the barrier becomes irritated, leading to more stinging and flaking. During the first week, instead of adding new ingredients, it is more useful to separately record tightness 10 minutes after cleansing, afternoon shine, and the number of red lesions.

What to take from Yoonchae’s routine is the order, not the products

Yoonchae showed a sequence of cleansing foam, toner, hydrating serum, cream, and sunscreen.[1] The key is not buying the same products, but making sure the role of each step does not overlap unnecessarily. Cleansing removes impurities and excess sebum, moisturizing helps reduce moisture loss after washing, and sunscreen lowers UV exposure.

In the morning, three steps—lukewarm water or a gentle cleanser, a lightweight moisturizer, and non-comedogenic sunscreen—are enough. “Non-comedogenic” is a consumer label indicating that a product is designed not to clog pores; it is not a guarantee that acne will never occur for anyone. The American Academy of Dermatology also recommends makeup, sunscreen, and skincare labeled as non-comedogenic for acne-prone skin.[2]

In the evening, remove makeup and sunscreen, then moisturize. If layering several toners or serums causes stinging, reduce the number of steps. There is no need to exclude every product simply because it contains oil, but if a heavy, occlusive texture repeatedly seems connected to breakouts, remove one product at a time and observe.

Not every red bump is acne

Comedones are blackheads and whiteheads caused by blocked pore openings. Papules and pustules are inflammatory lesions that appear red or contain pus, while nodules are deeper, painful lumps. By contrast, if the area around the mouth feels hot and spreads in tiny, acne-like bumps, or if many itchy bumps of the same size suddenly appear, other conditions such as perioral dermatitis or folliculitis should be considered.

Acne treatment guidelines recommend using benzoyl peroxide, topical retinoids, certain antibiotics, azelaic acid, and salicylic acid according to the type and severity of the lesions.[3] Because of antibiotic resistance, antibiotics are not used alone for long periods and are combined with other treatments. Cosmetic soothing ingredients may provide comfort, but they do not replace this entire group of treatments.

How should lifestyle care and procedures be sequenced?

First, simplify the routine for two weeks to three steps in the morning and three in the evening. Second, stop using pads and scrubs that involve rubbing the face, as well as frequent extractions. Third, keep items that repeatedly touch the face, such as pillowcases and mobile phones, clean, while avoiding the obsession that one must “eliminate all bacteria” to get better.

If active acne keeps recurring, establish a topical treatment plan suited to the type of lesion before considering procedures. When one or two large inflammatory lesions are particularly painful, an intralesional steroid injection may be considered selectively. It can calm a lesion quickly, but it carries a risk of skin atrophy and color changes, so it is not a treatment to apply indiscriminately to every lesion.

Extraction may be considered for blocked comedones, but only for lesions selected by a medical professional. Extraction treats the contents of that lesion; it is not a long-term treatment that prevents new acne. The official guidance from Seolleim Clinic also describes its one-day package as a single-visit arrangement and distinguishes extraction and inflammatory injections from a long-term plan to reduce new lesions.[4]

Laser treatment or subcision for depressed scars should be considered after active inflammation has stabilized to some degree and according to the shape of the scars. If red acne continues to appear and scar procedures are repeated first, additional scars may develop. With fractional laser treatment, redness, swelling, crusting, and possible hyperpigmentation should be factored into the schedule; with subcision, bruising, pain, and bleeding are possible.

Should you give up if sunscreen feels heavy?

Change the formulation rather than giving up. If moisturizer and sunscreen both feel heavy and pill when layered, reduce the morning moisturizer or simplify to a single hydrating sunscreen. For outdoor activity, broad-spectrum protection, SPF 30 or higher, and a water-resistant product are the basics; those with acne-prone skin can also look for a non-comedogenic label.[5]

If applying a product directly to the entire face feels daunting, test it along the jawline for several days. However, a patch test cannot fully predict whether pores will become clogged. You also need to assess how the product feels at the actual application amount and when reapplied. Rather than increasing cleansing because sunscreen makes the skin look shiny, it is better to remove it thoroughly in the evening and reduce the number of morning steps.

FAQ | Should people with oily yet dehydrated skin never use oil?

There is no absolute rule. The skin’s response depends on the overall formulation and the amount used. If light moisturization is sufficient, there is no need to add oil, but there is also no basis for excluding every product simply because its ingredient list includes oil.

FAQ | Do acne patches treat acne?

Hydrocolloid patches may help prevent touching the area and absorb surface exudate. They do not treat the causes of blocked comedones or recurring new lesions.

FAQ | Can extraction and an inflammatory injection be done on the same day?

If the lesion types differ, each procedure may be selected during the same visit, but the two treatments are not applied indiscriminately to every bump. Comedones, pustules, and nodules should be distinguished, while scar risk and upcoming travel plans are also taken into account.

Recommended by Director Dr. Kang Jeong-ha

The order of execution is simple. The first priority is to record two weeks of gentle cleansing, light moisturization, and non-comedogenic SPF 30 or higher in the morning, followed by cleansing, evidence-based acne treatment, and moisturization in the evening. The second is to reduce friction and self-extraction, and photograph the location and number of red lesions once a week under the same lighting. The third is to have the lesion type diagnosed if painful nodules, scarring, or persistent inflammation are present.

Choose procedures according to the goal. For one or two large, painful inflammatory lesions, first consider an intralesional steroid injection, after receiving an explanation of the risks of atrophy and color changes. For blocked comedones, consider selective extraction while also establishing treatment to prevent new lesions. For depressed scars, choose fractional laser treatment or subcision according to the scar pattern after active acne has stabilized, and include the possibility of redness, crusting, bruising, and hyperpigmentation in the recovery schedule. What Yoonchae showed was not “zero oil,” but an attitude of understanding one’s skin response and adjusting the routine accordingly.

Sources

[1] Vogue · Want to Look “Snatched?” KATSEYE’s Yoonchae Shares Her Secrets · 2026-09-30

[2] American Academy of Dermatology · 10 skin care habits that can worsen acne

[3] American Academy of Dermatology · Updated guidelines for acne management · 2024-01-31

[4] Seolleim Clinic · Korean Acne One-Day Package: Can It Be Finished in One Visit? · 2026-10-19

[5] American Academy of Dermatology · Acne: Tips for managing · 2022-11-16

Interesting Dermatology Stories for Healthy Skin

Drawing on 16 years of experience running Seolleim Clinic in Gangnam, we make dermatology stories—covering practical skincare methods and celebrities, stars, and television—easy and approachable. Through professional knowledge and experience, we aim to help your skin look healthier and more beautiful. We hope this series broadens your understanding of skin and helps you discover ways to care for yourself.

Medical Director Dr. Kang Jeong-ha (Seolleim Clinic Gangnam)